The New Yorker:

Kids are mimicking the semi-professionals they see on their phones, imbibing ideas about beauty rooted in deep desires and capitulations.

By Jia Tolentino

Midday on a Thursday this summer in New York, I walked up Broadway in SoHo, toward Sephora, hoping that I wouldn’t see something. I had been reading—in the Times, the Washington Post, the Guardian, The Atlantic—about the tweens of Generation Alpha, and how they have gone wild for expensive beauty products. Apparently, these highly online children were buying and using things that even I, an indulgent grown woman, find too splurgy to experiment with: forty-eight-dollar Sol de Janeiro body butters, sixty-nine-dollar Drunk Elephant polypeptide moisturizers, twenty-six-dollar Tarte lip glosses. Local correspondents—i.e., friends who visit Sephora more often than I do—also reported regular swarms of preteens. I asked one friend, who has twelve-year-old twin daughters, if the Sephora-tween phenomenon was overhyped, a creation of the press and TikTok. “Oh girl, it is one hundred percent real, and it blows my mind,” she wrote back.

Before my SoHo visit, I created a blank-slate TikTok account and selected “beauty” as my only interest. Then I scrolled. Within minutes, I’d been shown a video documenting a nine-year-old’s skin-care routine and a branded post featuring a child influencer with the caption “Night time skincare for 6 year olds.” Soon I was watching a pair of elementary-school-age girls applying Drunk Elephant products and the video of an angry kid with the caption “POV: You tell your 9 year old she can’t use retinol.” (Retinol can help with acne, but is primarily known as the gold-standard anti-aging ingredient.) I went to Sephora’s Web site and looked up some of the products that the store carries from Drunk Elephant, a “clean” skin-care brand that was acquired by Shiseido, five years ago, for eight hundred and forty-five million dollars. At the bottom of the product pages, there were user questions and reviews. Below a sixty-dollar eye cream, the first user-submitted question asked: “is this ok for an 11 year old?” Two questions down: “can I use this at 13 if I’m only using a very little bit?” Next question: “is this ok for a ten year old, my skin does get dry and my undereyes sometimes get super dry, any other recamandations are good too! : )))).”

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