Mosul, one of Iraq’s largest cities, was the place where so-called Islamic State declared its caliphate back in 2014. Now, after the Iraqi government has declared victory over IS -the group has also lost its last strongholds in Syria- the massive destruction over the campaign to liberate the city five months ago is in plain sight. Nafiseh Kohnavard from the BBC’s Persian Service has been covering the battle for Mosul and has been back to the city’s old town where life for ordinary civilians is anything but back to normal.